Friday, November 16, 2007

Dumfries, Scotland - Our Sister City since 1987

My Scotish heritage on my mother’s side originated in the 14th century in Dumfries. Asmall clan, MacClish, was related to the MacQuillias and to the MacPheron (at least according to what I read in Anderson’s Kilt Shop). The fight against Bonnie Prince Charles and the defeat at the Battle of Culloden in the 1730’s seems to have eliminated most of them.

Dumfries is a border town where hundreds of years of British history can be explored. It was in Dumfries where Robert the Bruce met and killed John Comyn at Grey Friars Church and declared himself King of Scotland in 1306. Contested and embattled “Good King Robert” prevailed and Scotland became the First Nation State in Europe.


This is a region of haunting rolling hills crisscrossed by rubble stone fences and farm fields dotted white with sheep. Castles and Abbeys stand in ruins, not destroyed during World War II, but ordered dismantled in the 1400's by King Henry VIII in his struggle against the Catholic Church and its wealthy land holdings. Iron Age remains of Roman Forts are still visible and present remarkable archeological dig sites.

Lockerbie, where the sabotaged flight of Pan American 747 crashed in 1988 is in Dumfries/Galloway. 270 people, mostly students from Syracuse University were killed in this tragedy. A memorial center is maintained in the cemetery and a memorial window is installed in the Town Hall. Each year 2 senior pupils of Lockerbie Academy receive a year’s scholarship at Syracuse.


This is mournful country yet with a haunting beauty that inspired J. M. Barrie’s Fantasy Story Peter Pan and the songs and poems of Robert Burns. Robert Burns is the Heart and Soul of Dumfries. The simple sand stone house where he lived and died in 1796, at the young age of 37, is a museum.



Some years after this death, the citizens of Scotland took up a subscription to raise money for a proper mausoleum. The elaborate white grave site sits among ancient 5-foot high red stone markers of Dumfries citizens in St. Michael’s, the oldest church in Dumfries.

The Church itself was built in 1741 on the foundations of previous churches spanning 1300 years of time. During the last reconstruction, metal lead for the roof was purchased by the citizens of Dumfries to make shot to protect them from Bonnie Prince Charles. The Prince spent 3 days in Dumfries among the citizenry of non-supporters, but no shot was fired. A common grave marks the site for visitors of cholera epidemics in 1832 and 1848. The first use of anesthetic was in this city.


The Globe Inn, where he ate and drank, and is still a place to eat and drink, is filled with memorabilia and the spirit of Scotland’s National Bard who gave us Auld Lang Syne, Tam O’Shanter, My Love is Like a Red, Red Rose and 100's more.


Dumfries/Galloway borders the Solway Firth - a huge estuary that separates Scotland from England and anoints Dumfries as the “Riviera of the South”. It is on this coast that John Paul Jones was born, raised and learned about the sea to become an Admiral and the Father of the American Navy. I visited the Church in Kirkbeon , a 12th century village, that he attended and the cottage where he grew up. The cottage built in 1740 is now a museum thanks to the vision and work of Admiral Jerauld Wright, USN. Supported by a charitable trust, the site was opened in 1991, thirty years after Admiral Wright began his restoration effort. John Paul Jones is buried at the U. S. Naval Academy in a crypt beneath the Chapel. A battle with Ranger, a ship under his command, is featured in Art Walk at Prince George and Craig Street.


Ken Cameron, past Provost (Mayor) introduced Dumfries to Annapolis in 1987 when we became Sister Cities. Over the twenty years, delegations from Dumfries have visited Annapolis several times. We have not been so visible.

The delegation welcoming me could not have been more gracious. David Lockwood, Robert Thom, Alfred Hannay were just a few who spent hours of time introducing me to Dumfries/Galloway. We talked about challenges--affordable housing, the economy, seagulls.

Like us, Dumfries is a city of small shops, but too many young people leave town to find a job. We discussed ways to strengthen our ties, small business opportunities. I immediately thought of the sheep everywhere in view and of woolen goods. But despite all the sheep, Ivor Hyslop, councilman and farmer, says it costs more to shear sheep than to sell the wool-an industry in decline.


Dumfries is, of course, a center for anyone interested in exploring history to visit. The Iron Age, Romans, early Christians, battles with England, religious struggles-the stories are all here.

In 2009 Scotland is promoting a special year for those of Scottish heritage to explore this homeland. A Navy town, Annapolis and Dumfries are forever linked with John Paul Jones, the father of America’s Navy. Friends of John Paul Jones Charity are under the Naval Historical Foundation.



My stay in Dumfries was concluded with a Scottish Dance and a group of students from a sister city in Germany were learning the folk dances similar to our square dances. I wanted to bring this fun to Annapolis. Councilman Jack Groom agreed to come to Annapolis to sing with Tony Spencer and Ray Weaver. Janice Hawkins, who arranged the events, agreed to come and teach the dances. Alfie and Robert wanted to play golf. And so we agreed as we shook hands good-bye that during 2008, Annapolis’ Charter Celebration year, Dumfries and Annapolis will join in a special event to showcase the history we share.

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