Monday, July 16, 2007
Sister City, Rochefort, France, July 16, 2007
Rochefort, France borders the meandering Charente River, 26 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. Except for a decision of the King of France, Louis XIV, Rochefort might never have been. In 1661 with only 3 fit ships left from the powerful navy created by Richelieu, the King had to rebuild his Navy.
By 1666, the country side of Rochefort was selected as the best place to build a Navy dockyard. Resources of wood and seafaring men were plentiful. Most importantly, it offered safe haven from the English.
Within 3 years the largest naval arsenal in Europe with numerous workshops and houses for a new city was complete. An architectural masterpiece, the Royal Rope Making factory, was, at 400 feet, the longest factory in Europe. Inside were carders and spinners of hemp who for 200 years made the variety of ropes necessary for the sailing vessels of the time.
The Nazis occupied and burned the ropery in 1944. The glory days of Rochefort had ended. The naval dockyards were abandoned, and weeds grew over the ancient buildings of Louis XIV.
In 1967 history took a turn. The Royal Rope Factory was declared an historic monument and was restored. The town that Louis the XIV challenged, “Let the creation of Rochefort be the largest and most beautiful the world has ever seen,” came back to life and is in the process of becoming a world heritage site.
The limestone houses with their ornate iron balconies made by the skilled artisans in the ancient naval yard remind one of New Orleans. Today, the world’s largest nursery for begonias-some 1500 varieties-discovered by an expedition with Mr. Begon, the town’s 17th century City Planner, is in Rochefort.
When I arrived, a most-welcoming Mayor Grasset was eager to share the specialness of this region. Once also the Mayor of La Rochelle, a 1000 year-old maritime city, where a street is named after his father, a French resistance fighter. I met with today’s Mayor, Maxim Bono, and together we discussed the challenges they face.
The rising value of real estate has put affordable housing at the top of the list for La Rochelle, along with preserving the ancient city, protecting the environment and managing growth. A popular sailing center-the Whitbread ended the around-the-world race here after leaving Annapolis-the city is increasing its public marina to accommodate 500 more boats. Boat slip demand here is like the demand for parking in Annapolis!
Rochefort, on the other hand, has housing available at affordable prices. The Bird Protection League and Nature reserves are in place. Restoration of the city’s heritage and economic diversification challenge its budget. Zodiac’s home office is here and France’s 9th largest spa, the begonia nursery, oyster farming and tourism are new industries important to the revival of Rochefort’s heritage.
The Marquis de Lafayette sailed to America in 1780 with 331 sailors aboard to join American’s in our fight for independence on the frigate Hermione, which was built in Rochefort. The Hermione is being reconstructed in the original dry dock and should sail to Boston in 2012. I hope to see the ship sail to the Chesapeake to commemorate the March 16, 1781 ceremony that announced the victory of the Chesapeake.
Life along the Charente River is dictated by ten-foot tides, unveiling islands in its broad bay adorned with old forts that assured the protection of the Rochefort Naval Base. These days, the islands are summer vacation retreats. The Mayor of Ile d’ Aix, where Napoleon spent his last night before exile, shared his concerns with accommodating the pressures of tourism…garbage collection, delivery of supplies and health care. The island is accessible only by boat, and, except for emergency vehicles, transportation is on foot, by bicycle or horse carriage. The challenges are many, as the population of 196 swells to 200,000 in the summer.
We were treated to excellent French cuisine, and the hollyhock, hydrangeas, swallows and doves were a treat for the eye and ear.
Oyster and mussel farms dot the mouth of the Charente estuary. They are smaller and saltier in taste than their Chesapeake cousins. Mayor Grasset is eager to share his new industry with us. When the tide is up, we motored back to Rochefort with J.F. Fountain aboard a catamaran that will soon sail the Atlantic in time for the Annapolis Boat Show.
I arrived in France during their celebration of Bastille Day. In Rochefort, I joined the Mayor, Ambassador and dignitaries to stand in review of the military parade-the small divisions of Navy, Army, Air Force and police are quite different from our 4th of July parades of politicians, community groups, dogs and high school bands.
I also attended FrancoFollies, a grand musical review on a stage area constructed between two ancient maritime towers in the oldest part of La Rochelle. Over 80,000 people stood in the open air auditorium and lined the harbor’s edge and sang the French National Anthem. After the fire works and as the crowd departed near midnight, I was impressed with the civility and orderliness of people of all ages…young couples holding hands, grandparents with grand children in strollers, teenagers walking or biking…faster, but still polite.
I learned much about the connections we have in common with our sister city-maritime and Navy, Marquis de Lafayette (without Frances declaration of war against England in 1778, our national destiny might have been quite different), cognac (it’s brewed here), begonias, oyster seeding, the preservation of our heritage, the challenges of tourism and growth, the Annapolis Boat Show and World War II.
By 1666, the country side of Rochefort was selected as the best place to build a Navy dockyard. Resources of wood and seafaring men were plentiful. Most importantly, it offered safe haven from the English.
Within 3 years the largest naval arsenal in Europe with numerous workshops and houses for a new city was complete. An architectural masterpiece, the Royal Rope Making factory, was, at 400 feet, the longest factory in Europe. Inside were carders and spinners of hemp who for 200 years made the variety of ropes necessary for the sailing vessels of the time.
The Nazis occupied and burned the ropery in 1944. The glory days of Rochefort had ended. The naval dockyards were abandoned, and weeds grew over the ancient buildings of Louis XIV.
In 1967 history took a turn. The Royal Rope Factory was declared an historic monument and was restored. The town that Louis the XIV challenged, “Let the creation of Rochefort be the largest and most beautiful the world has ever seen,” came back to life and is in the process of becoming a world heritage site.
The limestone houses with their ornate iron balconies made by the skilled artisans in the ancient naval yard remind one of New Orleans. Today, the world’s largest nursery for begonias-some 1500 varieties-discovered by an expedition with Mr. Begon, the town’s 17th century City Planner, is in Rochefort.
When I arrived, a most-welcoming Mayor Grasset was eager to share the specialness of this region. Once also the Mayor of La Rochelle, a 1000 year-old maritime city, where a street is named after his father, a French resistance fighter. I met with today’s Mayor, Maxim Bono, and together we discussed the challenges they face.
The rising value of real estate has put affordable housing at the top of the list for La Rochelle, along with preserving the ancient city, protecting the environment and managing growth. A popular sailing center-the Whitbread ended the around-the-world race here after leaving Annapolis-the city is increasing its public marina to accommodate 500 more boats. Boat slip demand here is like the demand for parking in Annapolis!
Rochefort, on the other hand, has housing available at affordable prices. The Bird Protection League and Nature reserves are in place. Restoration of the city’s heritage and economic diversification challenge its budget. Zodiac’s home office is here and France’s 9th largest spa, the begonia nursery, oyster farming and tourism are new industries important to the revival of Rochefort’s heritage.
The Marquis de Lafayette sailed to America in 1780 with 331 sailors aboard to join American’s in our fight for independence on the frigate Hermione, which was built in Rochefort. The Hermione is being reconstructed in the original dry dock and should sail to Boston in 2012. I hope to see the ship sail to the Chesapeake to commemorate the March 16, 1781 ceremony that announced the victory of the Chesapeake.
Life along the Charente River is dictated by ten-foot tides, unveiling islands in its broad bay adorned with old forts that assured the protection of the Rochefort Naval Base. These days, the islands are summer vacation retreats. The Mayor of Ile d’ Aix, where Napoleon spent his last night before exile, shared his concerns with accommodating the pressures of tourism…garbage collection, delivery of supplies and health care. The island is accessible only by boat, and, except for emergency vehicles, transportation is on foot, by bicycle or horse carriage. The challenges are many, as the population of 196 swells to 200,000 in the summer.
We were treated to excellent French cuisine, and the hollyhock, hydrangeas, swallows and doves were a treat for the eye and ear.
Oyster and mussel farms dot the mouth of the Charente estuary. They are smaller and saltier in taste than their Chesapeake cousins. Mayor Grasset is eager to share his new industry with us. When the tide is up, we motored back to Rochefort with J.F. Fountain aboard a catamaran that will soon sail the Atlantic in time for the Annapolis Boat Show.
I arrived in France during their celebration of Bastille Day. In Rochefort, I joined the Mayor, Ambassador and dignitaries to stand in review of the military parade-the small divisions of Navy, Army, Air Force and police are quite different from our 4th of July parades of politicians, community groups, dogs and high school bands.
I also attended FrancoFollies, a grand musical review on a stage area constructed between two ancient maritime towers in the oldest part of La Rochelle. Over 80,000 people stood in the open air auditorium and lined the harbor’s edge and sang the French National Anthem. After the fire works and as the crowd departed near midnight, I was impressed with the civility and orderliness of people of all ages…young couples holding hands, grandparents with grand children in strollers, teenagers walking or biking…faster, but still polite.
I learned much about the connections we have in common with our sister city-maritime and Navy, Marquis de Lafayette (without Frances declaration of war against England in 1778, our national destiny might have been quite different), cognac (it’s brewed here), begonias, oyster seeding, the preservation of our heritage, the challenges of tourism and growth, the Annapolis Boat Show and World War II.
I also learned that in Annapolis we rely far more on private contributions to support the simple things that bring pleasure in life like fireworks, gardens, art, celebrations like Charter 300 and major efforts in preservation. Public dollars are the major and sometimes only source of investment here. The after-shocks of World War II and family connections is still in the public conscience.
Mayor Grasset and the people he assembled to meet with me are eager to participate in our 2008 celebration. An exhibit that tells the stories of this international center of the sea is in the making for the Annapolis showcase. A visit with our new French friends has been set for early next year. Links with businesses in Annapolis for cuisine, flowers and oysters have been discovered-and for some we will meet again at the Annapolis Boat Show in just 2 months.
Bonjour!
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2 comments:
I'm not from Annapolis but it's clear that the fine citizens have a very informative mayor! I'm doing research on my family from France. My grandmother grew up in Rochefort and to this day I still have family there and in La Rochelle.
Thanks again for the great info, it's very useful!!!